New here? This is every section, one page — pick a place to start. Countries, India states, and topics link straight to their page; each of those has its own index of what's inside.
15 countries, one real route each — visas, costs, what actually happened.
Lucknow, up close — air quality, civic volunteering, and water.
What I'm building, and guidance for people who ask.
Journal entries and researched stories. RSS feed if you'd rather subscribe.
Who's behind this site.
Society, family, and city moments outside the travel routes.