All routes
Laos
26 DEC 2023-4 JAN 2024
e-visa (visa-on-arrival also available)

Laos

Crossed from Thailand via the Nong Khai border, closing out the 2023 Southeast Asia leg before heading into Vietnam.

01The Route

1 Vientiane 26 Dec 2023

Entry point from Thailand via Nong Khai — the capital, and the first stop of a short but dense Laos leg over New Year's.

2 Vang Vieng 27 Dec 2023

A short hop north from Vientiane — known for its karst-limestone scenery, and the stop that carried the trip through to the New Year before continuing on toward Vietnam.

3 Luang Prabang Dec 2023

A UNESCO World Heritage former royal capital — temples, the Mekong riverfront, and the well-known morning alms-giving ceremony, reached north from Vang Vieng.

4 Phonsavan Dec 2023/Jan 2024

Gateway to the Plain of Jars, a UNESCO World Heritage site — thousands of massive stone jars of unclear origin scattered across the Xiangkhouang plateau. The last Laos stop before the bus onward into Vietnam.

02Best Time to Visit

November–February is dry season, noticeably cooler — avoid March–May, the hot season before the rains arrive. This trip ran late December into early January, squarely in the good window.

03Vientiane

Patuxay — the "Lao Victory Gate" — a monument to those who fought for the country's independence.

04Vang Vieng

The one genuine splurge of the whole Southeast Asia run: a hot-air balloon ride, drifting from the south of Vang Vieng to the north of the city, taking in the karst limestone landscape and the Nam Xong river from above.

05Xiengkhuang — the Plain of Jars

A detour out to see the Plain of Jars, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (inscribed 2019) — thousands of megalithic stone jars scattered across the Xiengkhuang plateau, one of the more genuinely rare stops on the whole trip.

06Leaving Laos

A last Mekong River sunset cruise closed out 2023 — "the sun never sets," per the trip's own note on it. The onward journey used the Laos-China Railway before the overland crossing into Vietnam.

07Visa Reality Log

E-visa applied online in advance — visa-on-arrival was also an option here.

08Cost Breakdown

09What Surprised Me

That the one real splurge of the entire Southeast Asia run happened in the country budgeted the least attention. Laos was mostly a connective stretch — a week between Thailand and Vietnam, a couple of hostel bookings that didn't even go to plan cleanly. And then, almost as an aside, a hot-air balloon ride over Vang Vieng's karst landscape, and a genuine UNESCO rarity in the Plain of Jars — two of the most striking things on the whole trip, tucked into what was meant to be the quiet middle chapter.

10If You're Planning This Trip: What to Save On

01
Confirm hostel bookings a day ahead if your route through Laos is still loose.

Plans shifted more than once here — one no-show, one late cancellation.

02
The Vang Vieng hot-air balloon is worth booking directly with the operator.

It was the one genuine splurge of the whole Southeast Asia run, and worth it.

03
Have the next country's e-visa approved before you reach a land border, not after.

The Vietnam e-visa needed to already be in hand before the Nam Kan crossing was even possible.

All routes