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Vietnam
DEC 2023-JAN 2024
e-visa · applied in advance

Vietnam

An overland border crossing from Laos by bus, closing out the 2023 Southeast Asia run before flying home from Hanoi.

01The Route

1 Vinh 4 Jan 2024

The entry point into Vietnam from Laos — the start of a long north-south (then back north) route that ended up covering most of the country's length.

2 Hue 9 Jan 2024

The old imperial capital, reached heading south from Vinh — citadel, tombs, and the Perfume River.

3 Da Nang south to north leg

A coastal stop between Hue and Hoi An — the Marble Mountains and China Beach are both right here.

4 Hoi An south to north leg

The ancient trading port town, lantern-lit old quarter — usually the single most photographed stop on any Vietnam route, and this one was no exception.

5 Hanoi multiple stops

The capital, visited more than once on this loop — a base for the run north to Sa Pa and Cat Ba Island, and the city the trip finally departed from on 20 January.

6 Sa Pa north leg

Deep in the northern mountains near the Chinese border — terraced rice fields and the trip's furthest point from the coast.

7 Cat Ba Island north leg

The largest island in Ha Long Bay's archipelago, and the last real stop before returning to Hanoi to fly out on 20 January.

02Best Time to Visit

February–May for the center is (Hue, Da Nang, Hoi An) avoiding the September–November typhoon season; the north (Hanoi, Sa Pa) is better cool and dry, October–April. This trip ran January, a reasonable window for both halves of the route.

03Central Vietnam

Dong Hoi — Nhat Le Beach, and the region's two headline caves: Phong Nha Cave and Thiên Đường (Paradise) Cave, both inside the Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng UNESCO World Heritage Site. Not a party town — most things shut by 8pm. A real friendship made here, with a local named Taqi, including a memorable ride together.

Hue — the Imperial Citadel, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating to 1993's inscription. Traveled this stretch with a fellow traveler, Jens.

Da Nang — the Cham Sculpture Museum (Đà Nẵng Museum of Cham Sculpture), the first stop after arriving.

Hoi An — the Ancient Town, a well-preserved Southeast Asian trading port, plus My Son Sanctuary, another UNESCO World Heritage Site nearby.

04North Vietnam

Hanoi — including the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, a name inseparable from the country itself.

Sa Pa — a mountain-region stay at "Ms Hoàng Diệu's place," described warmly as a highlight of the hospitality on this leg.

Cat Ba Island & Halong Bay — Ngự Lâm Peak (the island's highest point), Trung Trang Cave, and a boat stay in Halong Bay itself, complete with the "descending dragon" legend the bay is named for.

05Visa Reality Log

E-visa, applied online in advance — unlike Laos or Cambodia, Vietnam doesn't offer visa-on-arrival for this route, so the approval had to come through before the Laos-Vietnam border crossing was even possible. It wasn't smooth: applied 24 December, got an "Amending Denied" notice on 26 December (information needed fixing and resubmitting), and finally came through approved on 29 December — cutting it close to the planned border crossing. Confirmed: the $25 single-entry e-visa was the one chosen (the alternative, $50 multiple-entry, wasn't needed for this route) — 624,871 VND charged via Vietcombank/nganluong.vn on 24 December. Travel insurance (Care Health "Explore Asia," $100,000 sum insured) was arranged the same day the visa fee was paid, 24 December.

06The Land Crossing

An overland bus across the Laos-Vietnam border, rather than flying the gap — the kind of route that gets called "an amazing journey" afterward specifically because it wasn't the easy option. Landing near Vinh in Nghệ An province put the border crossing itself right at the start of the whole Vietnam leg, before Hue, Da Nang, or Hanoi were even on the horizon — the first impression of the country came through a bus window, not an airport arrivals hall.

07Cost Breakdown

08What Surprised Me

How much ground got covered without a single domestic flight. Vinh to Quảng Bình to Hue to Da Nang to Hoi An, then all the way north to Hanoi, Sa Pa, and Cat Ba Island — the entire spine of the country, done overland and by local transport (Grab rides through two provinces, buses, trains), bookended by one land border crossing on one end and a flight home from Hanoi on the other. Vietnam has an unusually long, narrow shape, and this route treated the whole length of it as one continuous corridor rather than a series of flights between highlights.

09If You're Planning This Trip: What to Save On

01
Apply for Vietnam's e-visa well before a land-border crossing is planned.

The approval process here bounced back once requesting more information — build in buffer time, you can't cross until it clears.

02
The $25 single-entry e-visa is enough unless you're planning to exit and re-enter mid-trip.

The $50 multiple-entry option wasn't needed for a route like this one.

03
Arrange travel insurance the same day you pay the visa fee, not as an afterthought.

One less thing to remember once the visa admin is already open on your screen.

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