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Botswana
14-21 AUG 2022
e-visa (visa-on-arrival also available)

Botswana

The overlanding leg of the 2022 Africa trip — after Zambia, before Namibia.

01The Route

1 Chobe 14 Aug 2022

Entered from Zambia at Kazungula Bridge Border, straight into Chobe National Park — the first stop of the Botswana leg.

2 Nata / Sua Pan en route

Part of the Makgadikgadi salt pans — self-camping en route to Maun, measured by documented stops from the trip's own video log rather than confirmed nights.

3 Maun exit 21 Aug 2022

The Okavango Delta, and the last stop before exiting to Namibia via Mamuno on 21 Aug — 9 confirmed days in Botswana total, per the trip's own "9 Days in Botswana" playlist.

02Best Time to Visit

May–October is dry season — wildlife concentrates around the remaining waterholes, making Chobe and the Okavango Delta far more rewarding than during the wet months. This trip ran mid-August, right in that window.

03Chobe to Nata

Chobe National Park first — big-game territory right at the Zambia border. Then on toward Nata: a first attempt at canoeing on the Nata River, a camp night at Eselbe (canoe, camping, and — for whatever reason — vegetable biryani over the fire), and the Sua Pan itself, part of the vast Makgadikgadi salt pan system. This stretch also happened to be where the YouTube channel crossed 1,000 subscribers.

04Maun & the Okavango Delta

First proper self-camping experience, at African Bush Lovers camp between Nata and Maun. From Maun: a scenic helicopter flight over the Okavango Delta, a sunset cruise on the Thamalakane River, and more camp-cook-dine evenings — including meeting a group of travelers from Miami along the way.

05Visa Reality Log

E-visa applied online in advance, tourist visa — 300 BWP (~$22), paid 12 July 2022, confirmed via card statement. Visa-on-arrival was also offered but not used. The application itself was a saga — the evisa.gov.bw site refused to register or submit for several days straight (9–11 July), then flagged a date-of-birth display error after payment and submission (18–29 July). A genuinely helpful immigration officer, Moitshepi Amos Gile, walked through all of it by email over about ten messages, confirming along the way that entry is allowed through any port — Gaborone, Maun, or Kazungula — on the same visa, with roughly 14 days processing and a 1-month validity window.

06Cost Breakdown

Before settling on the Kazungula → Mamuno route, a couple of alternatives were considered and dropped: a guesthouse booked (then cancelled, same day) in Katima Mulilo, Namibia's Zambezi panhandle, along with an inquiry about bus service from there toward Windhoek — the route wasn't available. Also looked into a self-drive 4x4 rental (Savanna Car Hire, Toyota Hilux Double Cab) for the region, but no vehicles were available at the time.

07Forex & Hidden Charges — What's Confirmed So Far

One confirmed card charge so far: the 300 BWP (~$22) e-visa fee, 12 July 2022. The guesthouse booking that was cancelled same-day cost nothing, and the self-drive rental never happened. Still the thinnest cost picture of the four Africa pages beyond that — once card statement data turns up for the actual Chobe/Nata/Maun stretch, this section can carry real numbers like Uzbekistan does.

08What Surprised Me

That the government website was the obstacle, and a government employee was the fix. The evisa.gov.bw portal itself failed to register for days, then threw a date-of-birth error after payment — the kind of bureaucratic dead-end that usually means giving up and trying a workaround. Instead, one immigration officer, Moitshepi Amos Gile, just answered every follow-up email personally until it worked. The broken system and the helpful person behind it were the same institution — worth remembering before writing off a country's bureaucracy based on its website alone.

09If You're Planning This Trip: What to Save On

01
Confirm your visa's port-of-entry flexibility before committing to a route.

The e-visa saga here resolved with confirmation that entry was allowed through any port (Gaborone, Maun, or Kazungula) on the same visa — worth checking explicitly rather than assuming your route is locked in by your visa type.

02
Book cancellable accommodation when your route might still shift.

The Katima Mulilo guesthouse was cancelled for free, same day — a real save, since plans changed within hours of booking it.

03
Self-drive 4x4 rentals in this region can sell out with little notice.

If a self-drive overland route is part of your plan, book weeks ahead rather than assuming availability closer to the date.

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