Fergana city was the quiet end of the circuit — we came in by shared taxi from Kokand and stayed at the Joy Guesthouse, run, as it turns out, by the same owner as the Evergreen Guesthouse back in Margilon. A dorm bed was about $13. After a long loop through Margilon, Andijan, Namangan, and Kokand, it was the right place to slow down before doubling back to Margilon and the train to Tashkent.










Ringed by the Tien Shan and Gissar-Alay, the Ferghana Valley sat on the old route between Sogd-Bactria, China and India. As early as the 3rd century BC the state of Davan flourished here — the source of the "heavenly horses" that Han-dynasty China mounted expeditions to obtain — and the valley later gave the world the astronomer al-Ferghani, the jurist al-Marginani, and the poet-conqueror Babur.